New guttering & rainwater goods
In short
A full new run goes in when the existing guttering has gone brittle, when too many joints are failing to be worth repairing individually, or when the size was never right for the roof draining into it. Sizing and fall are what make the difference between a good job and a repeat one.
Also called: New gutters · Replace guttering · Rainwater goods · Gutter installation
Signs you need this
- Guttering that has gone brittle, faded or cracked with UV
- Multiple joints leaking along the same run
- Overflowing in every heavy shower even when clear
- An extension whose roof discharges into the original gutter
- Sagging between brackets along most of a run
- Rusted-through cast iron beyond economic repair
Guttering gets replaced for three reasons: it has reached the end of its life, it has too many faults to be worth fixing one at a time, or it was never adequate in the first place. The third is more common than people expect and it is the one that gets missed.
Capacity is a genuine calculation, not a guess. The gutter and downpipe have to carry the water off the roof area that drains into them, and the commonest failure is an extension. A rear extension roof discharging into the original gutter can easily double the catchment while the gutter and the single downpipe stay the same size — after which the run overflows in every heavy shower and everybody blames blockages. The fix is a larger profile, an additional outlet, or both.
Profile choice is partly capacity and partly appearance. Half-round is the standard domestic profile and the smallest. Deepflow and ogee sections carry considerably more, which is what a larger roof or an extended catchment wants. Square-line looks modern; ogee reads as traditional. On a period property, cast iron or cast-effect aluminium is usually the right visual answer.
Fall is what makes it work. The run has to be set to a consistent fall towards the outlet, with brackets at close enough centres to hold it there — plastic gutter is not stiff, and under-bracketed runs sag between supports and hold water. On a long elevation it may be better to fall in two directions to two separate downpipes rather than run the whole length to one.
The moment to replace guttering is when the fascia is being done, or when a scaffold is up for something else. Almost all of the cost in a gutter job is access, so combining it with fascia and soffit renewal, or doing it while a roof is being worked on, saves real money. Doing it as an isolated job six months after the scaffold came down is paying for access twice.
Where the water goes matters as much as how it gets there. Downpipes should discharge into a gully or a proper connection, not onto the ground next to the wall — which saturates the foundations and is a common cause of damp at ground-floor level. Where a downpipe discharges to a shared drain, note that since 1 October 2011 drains and sewers shared between properties have belonged to the water company, so a blockage past the point where your drain joins next door's is often United Utilities' to clear rather than yours to pay for.
What the job covers
- Catchment area assessed and the gutter sized against it
- Profile chosen for capacity and for how the house looks
- Additional outlets or downpipes where the run is overloaded
- Consistent fall set, with brackets at correct centres
- Downpipe discharge into a proper gully, not onto the ground
- Fascia condition checked and dealt with at the same time
What it costs
We don't publish a price for this yet, because a number pulled out of the air is worse than no number at all — your roofer has to honour it. On roofing it would also be close to meaningless: access is often the biggest single factor, and it varies enormously house to house. You'll get a firm price for your actual job when they ring you back, before any work starts. The quote itself is free and there's no obligation either way.
Common questions
How do I know if my gutter is big enough?
If it overflows in heavy rain when it is completely clear, it is not — and the usual reason is an extension that added roof area without adding capacity. The gutter and downpipe have to be sized against the area draining into them, which is a calculation rather than a guess. The fix is a larger profile, an extra outlet, or both.
Should I replace the fascias at the same time?
If they are tired, yes — almost all the cost of gutter work is the access, so doing both together is substantially cheaper than doing them a year apart. It also means the new brackets are screwed into sound timber rather than into a fascia that is about to be replaced.
Plastic, aluminium or cast iron?
Plastic is cheap, light and perfectly serviceable, and it is what most houses have. Aluminium — including cast-effect profiles — is more expensive, lasts far longer and needs no painting, and looks right on a period property. Cast iron is the traditional article, looks best on an older building and needs periodic repainting.
Where should the downpipe discharge?
Into a gully or a proper drainage connection, never onto the ground beside the wall. Water discharging at the base of a wall saturates the ground and is a common cause of damp at ground-floor level. If your downpipe currently ends a foot above bare soil, that is worth sorting while the work is being done.
Need this doing in Macclesfield?
Tell us the job and it goes straight to our local roofer — one call back, usually the same day. Free quote, no obligation.