Roof window & skylight installation
In short
Fitting a new roof window means cutting and trimming an opening in the roof structure, then weathering it with the correct flashing kit for your covering. The structural trimming and the right kit are what decide whether it works — not the window itself.
Also called: Velux installation · Fit a skylight · New roof window · Rooflight installation
Signs you need this
- A loft conversion or room in the roof needing daylight
- A dark landing, stairwell or upstairs room
- An existing rooflight too small for the space
- A bathroom in the roof needing light and ventilation
- An extension with a roof that could take a rooflight
A roof window is a hole in a working roof, so all of the risk lives in the opening and the weathering rather than in the unit. A decent window from any of the major manufacturers, fitted into a properly trimmed opening with the correct flashing kit, is as watertight as the roof around it and will stay that way for decades.
The structural part comes first. A new opening almost always means cutting at least one rafter, and a cut rafter has to be trimmed — new timbers across the head and the sill of the opening, and the cut rafter's load transferred into the rafters either side. For a single standard-width window that is routine carpentry. For a wider opening, or a larger unit, or several units in a row, it can need proper structural design and Building Control involvement.
Then the flashing kit, which is the part people economise on and should not. Every manufacturer supplies kits matched to the covering — one for slate and thin flat coverings, another for profiled tiles, another for very deep profiles, and a separate one for combining units side by side. Using the wrong kit, or dressing lead over the top because the right kit was not ordered, is the single commonest reason a roof window leaks. It usually shows at the top corners, usually within two winters.
Position matters more than people expect. Too low and you get a window you look at rather than out of; too high and the room does not get the light on the floor. There are also practical constraints — the opening has to sit between structural members without cutting more than it should, it needs to clear the ridge and the eaves by sensible distances, and on a room-in-roof the head height decides where it can sensibly go.
Ventilation and condensation get overlooked and cause a lot of the calls that follow. A roof window is a cold surface, so warm humid air in the room condenses on the glass and runs onto the sill — which looks exactly like a leak. Most units have a background ventilation flap; using it, and having reasonable ventilation in the room, prevents the problem. On a bathroom or a kitchen it is not optional.
Planning is usually straightforward but not always. Roof windows on a rear or side slope are typically permitted development, subject to limits on how far they project and on obscure glazing where they overlook a boundary. In a conservation area, or on a listed building, or where an Article 4 direction applies — and Macclesfield has those at Christ Church and High Street — a window on a front elevation may need permission. Worth checking before ordering.
What the job covers
- Opening set out and the roof structure properly trimmed
- Structural advice, and Building Control involvement where needed
- The correct manufacturer flashing kit for your exact covering
- Underlay dressed and sealed correctly around the opening
- Internal lining and finish where that is part of the job
- Planning position checked before anything is ordered
What it costs
We don't publish a price for this yet, because a number pulled out of the air is worse than no number at all — your roofer has to honour it. On roofing it would also be close to meaningless: access is often the biggest single factor, and it varies enormously house to house. You'll get a firm price for your actual job when they ring you back, before any work starts. The quote itself is free and there's no obligation either way.
Common questions
Do I need planning permission?
Usually not on a rear or side slope — roof windows are normally permitted development within limits on projection and with obscure glazing where they overlook a boundary. It changes on a front elevation in a conservation area, on a listed building, or where an Article 4 direction applies, which in this town includes Christ Church and High Street. A five-minute check with Cheshire East before ordering is worth it.
Does a rafter have to be cut?
For most standard windows, yes — and it is fine provided the opening is properly trimmed, with new timbers across the head and sill transferring the load into the rafters either side. Wider openings, larger units or several in a row can need structural design and Building Control. What is not acceptable is cutting a rafter and leaving it.
Why does the flashing kit matter so much?
Because it is what actually keeps the water out, and it is covering-specific. There is a different kit for slate, for profiled tiles, for deep-profile tiles and for combining units. Using the wrong one — or dressing lead over the top because the right one was not ordered — is the commonest cause of a leaking roof window, and it shows at the top corners within a couple of winters.
My new roof window has water running off the glass. Is it leaking?
Very possibly not. Glass is a cold surface, so humid room air condenses on it and runs down onto the sill, which looks exactly like a leak. Using the background ventilation flap and ventilating the room usually stops it. In a bathroom it is close to guaranteed without proper extraction.
Need this doing in Macclesfield?
Tell us the job and it goes straight to our local roofer — one call back, usually the same day. Free quote, no obligation.